night in Hong Kong

 

On my occasional trips to Hong Kong, I find that the city by day is all sharp corners, rushing traffic, commercialism, and faceless shopping malls. The city softens and changes its personality at night, when it becomes a clash of colors, neon signs, food smells, clamoring crowds, and suddenly-quiet and dark streets. The city becomes more intimate, enclosed; its hidden spaces – storefront restaurants, dimly-lit stairways leading to mysterious spaces above, lighted upper floors – revealing themselves.

 

 

On a recent overnight trip, I explored the night streets of the Jordan area, in the Kowloon peninsula, an area abounding in restaurants and the touristy Night Market. Nathan Road, with its tall buildings and double-decker buses, slices through the area, lined with shops and hotels. Side streets branch off to either side, lined with small markets, food stalls, massage parlors, and restaurants offering a dizzying array of cuisines. Near to the Night Market is an entire street of restaurants serving spicy crab and other seafood, seating areas spilling out onto the sidewalks.

 

 

 

I’d had my first Hong Kong dim sum meal earlier in the day, grabbed a half sandwich from Pret a Manger in the afternoon, and was now hungry for dinner. I wasn’t adventurous enough to order a platter of spicy crab (market price), so decided on a plate of fried noodles with shrimp, and steamed clams in brown sauce. My table was on the sidewalk, and I aimed my camera into the crowd and snapped away at random into the nighttime scene, hoping for some interesting results.

 

 

 

The Night Market was far too crowded to explore, so I headed into the side streets and away from the crowds. Architecturally and culturally, Hong Kong is different from mainland China; it’s more cosmopolitan and more westernized, with English spoken as much as Cantonese or Chinese. I photographed night restaurants and shops, and enjoyed the mystery of streets that alternated light and dark. Wandering at night requires you to peer into shadows and to be more alert to changes in atmosphere and mood.

 

 

 

 

I became tired after a while, so I headed back to Nathan Road and then south to Tsim Sha Tsui, where my hotel was, instead of taking the crowded metro. Back at my hotel, I contemplated my adventures, and began to plan my next nighttime walk.

 

three days in Bangkok

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Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Grand Palace, Bangkok

 

My friend and I took a well-deserved short trip to Bangkok over the New Year holiday. Unlike in China, the weather was warm, and the air was clean. This was my first time in Thailand, and everything, from the sky train to the street food, the open-air markets, riding express boats on the river, and the architecture of the temples, was fascinating.

We ate our fill of street food, enjoyed the hot sunshine, and explored both the ultra-modern shopping centers and the narrow lanes of the older quarters. In addition, thanks to The Hairy Bikers Asian Adventure, we visited locally famous restaurant Krua Apsorn (also known as Auntie Daeng’s) twice. The food was superb. I drank lots of Thai iced coffee during the trip to keep up my energy.

The trip was much too short, but a welcome year-end break and an escape from the damp cold of the eastern China winter. It left me wanting to return soon.

 

 

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Riding in a Tuk Tuk on the way to the Grand Palace

 

 

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Food seller at Train Night Market

 

 

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Street Food at the Weekend Market

 

 

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Grilling fish, Train Night Market

 

 

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Fried sea bass, Krua Apsorn Restaurant

 

 

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Temple of Dawn

 

 

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Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Grand Palace, Bangkok

 

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Aix-en-Provence

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La Rotonde, Aix-en-Provence

 

The final installment in my travelogue of my time in France is my day in Aix-en-Provence, a sentimental journey 35 years after spending time there as a student. Taking the train from Marseille, I arrived about 8 a.m., hoping to avoid the blistering heat of the past few days. From the train station I walked to La Rotonde, a traffic circle surrounding a large fountain dating from 1860, topped by statues of the Three Graces. From the Rotonde extends the Cours Mirabeau, one of the most beautiful streets in Europe.

Apart from a large Apple store and some upscale boutiques lining the Cours Mirabeau, the views were pretty much as I remembered them. Founded by the Romans, who discovered hot springs there, Aix was the capital of Provence during the middle ages, and after the 12th century, became an artistic center and seat of learning. The town exudes an air of old aristocracy, attested by the hôtels particuliers (private mansions) which line the Cours Mirabeau and the streets of the Quartier Mazarin to its south. It is still an artistic center; among its museums are the Musée Granet and the Fondation Vasarely, and just outside of town is the Atelier Cézanne, where the artist worked.

 

 

 

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Hôtel de Ville and Clock Tower

 

 

Among the town’s many architectural treasures are the Hôtel de Ville and Clock Tower, the Cathedral of Saint Sauveur and its exquisite cloister, and small squares with fountains – Aix is filled with fountains, though my favorite, the Four Dolphins Fountain, was under restoration and covered from view.

 

 

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Cathedral of Saint Sauveur, detail of carved capitals in the cloister

 

 

The day was already beginning to heat up, so after ambling up the Cours Mirabeau I stopped to rest over a coffee at the town’s most famous cafe, Les Deux Garcons, dating from 1792. I had visited the cafe many times during my students days in 1979-80, and admiring the marble-topped, brass-rimmed tables, remembered how one of my friends had simply picked one of the tables up and walked away with it, eventually shipping it back home to the USA.

My next destination was the hôtel particulier at 43 Rue Roux-Alphéren where I had rented a tiny servant’s room as a student. I remembered opening the huge wooden door with my large, old-fashioned key, and trying to walk up the stairs before the automatic timer switched off the lights – I never seemed to make it.

 

 

 

 

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43 Rue Roux-Alphéren, entrance

 

 

 

 

 

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43 Rue Roux-Alphéren; the tiny window with closed shutters between the large windows to the left was the room I rented.

 

 

The real attraction of Aix, however, and my reason for visiting on a Saturday, is the huge market that takes place several days a week on the Place de Verdun. I was overwhelmed by the selections of fresh fruits and vegetables, olives, spices, meats, cheeses, and prepared foods. I could have eaten here for days and been happy. I settled, however, for some packets of spices, fleur de sel from the Camargue, some cheese, bread, and a straw shopping basket.

 

 

 

 

 

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The Saturday market in Aix

 

 

 

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My day in Aix went by quickly. After visiting the Cathedral and meandering down shop-lined streets, I went to the Musée Granet to view its art collections as well as the traveling exhibit American Icons. Next to the museum was the church of St. Jean de Malte, where I remembered going in the evenings to attend vespers. The church smelled of incense, which brought back memories of sitting in a circle in the dim sanctuary singing together from song sheets.

I didn’t think I would be hungry after the market, but I was. I wandered back down to The Rotonde, where in my student days there used to be a stand selling fabulous freshly-made pan bagnat – loves of bread cut in half and stuffed with tuna, vegetables, olives, parsley, garlic, and olive oil. It was long gone, but the cafe Le Cintra, where I used to hang out and have morning coffee while trying to work the Herald Tribune crosswords, was still there. The cafe had gone markedly upscale, spilling out onto the sidewalk and filled with lunch diners. I sat down and ordered moules frites – steamed mussels in mariniere sauce with a side of fries. It was delicious.

Prior to catching the train back to Marseille I wandered some more, stopping at an antique shop where I bought an old porcelain demitasse cup and saucer. I now drink my coffee out of it every morning.

My student days in Aix had been bittersweet, the experience of culture shock rather extreme, my fears of speaking in French inhibiting my study experience, the eternal Provencal sunshine and the town’s beauty almost too much sometimes. As it turned out, I left France before the school year was finished, due to lack of funds, something that I have always regretted, and returned to a life of uncertainty and an unknown future in the USA. Returning after all these years, I had changed, and I found it hard to recapture the feelings of my youth.

 

 

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Jupiter and Thetis, 1811, Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres.  Oil on canvas, 136⅝ × 101¼ inches. Musée Granet, Aix-en-Provence, France.

 

 

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Facade, Aix-en-Provence

 

 

 

food in Marseille

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Toinou – Les Fruits de Mer!

 

My eating in Marseille was a focused activity, based mainly on seafood. Some of my eating adventures are pictured here, and I have to say that my two favorite restaurants – both researched, in fact, long before my trip – during my 7-day stay were Toinou (4 meals) and La Boîte à Sardine (only 1 meal, regrettably). Toinou is part self-service, part place-your-order-at-the-counter, then you find a place at your table and wait for your order to arrive. My favorite thing there was their anchoïade (anchovy spread) spread on the mini-baguettes that you grab on the way to the order counter. Some of my selections are shown below.

 

 

 

 

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Toinou – the sidewalk fish display

 

 

 

 

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Toinou – sea bass with butter and fried potatoes

 

 

 

 

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Toinou – shrimp with aioli on the side

 

 

 

 

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Toinou – half a Breton lobster

 

 

 

 

 

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Toinou – assorted oysters

 

 

 

 

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La Boîte à Sardine, funky decor and delicious lunch

 

At the top of La Canebiere, and across the street from the Eglise des Reformes, is the slightly kitschy but fun La Boîte à Sardine (The Sardine Can), open on most days only for lunch, and serving exceptionally fresh fish. The menu is hand-written on a wooden box carried from table to table by the waiter.

 

 

 

 

 

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Lunch at La Boîte à Sardine, catfish, potatoes, eggplant

 

 

 

 

 

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Mutton couscous at Ghomrassen, near St. Charles train station.

 

 

The couscous at Ghomrassen was good, but a truly superb couscous was sadly lacking on this trip. I had also misplaced my list of recommended restaurants that served it.

A visit to Marseille also demands a tour of the Noailles district, the market area and center for imported exotic spices and foodstuffs. In one shop I was so bewildered by the array of aromatic ingredients that I went into sensory shock. I settled, however, for possibly the best slice of halvah I’d ever eaten.

My final splurge, after spending some time at a cafe next to the Catalans Beach, was the famous Marseille bouillabaisse, the local fish stew requiring 5 different Mediterranean fish. I’d read that the dish is skyrocketing in price because the required fish are no longer plentiful; I paid 60 Euros (about $60) for my lunch at Chez Fonfon, serving one of the most well-known local renditions.

 

 

 

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The famous Marseille bouillabaisse, at Chez Fonfon

 

 

 

 

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Chez Fonfon is on the far left, in the picturesque Vallon des Auffes

 

 

 

 

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Finally, one of my favorite things in the world, moules-frites (steamed mussels with mariniere sauce, served with fries)