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The Arts Club of Chicago is both a private club and an exhibition space open to the public. The 1997 building, designed by Vinci/Hamp Architects, Inc., salvaged this Mies van der Rohe staircase from the Club’s previous headquarters.
Open House Chicago is an annual event sponsored by the Chicago Architecture Foundation, offering free access to over 200 buildings across the city, many of which are not normally open to the public. I’d been looking forward to the event for months, and over the weekend of October 14-15 I squeezed in as many visits as I could, in the process getting drenched in a torrential rainstorm on Saturday. I saw only a fraction of what was available, mostly in the Loop and near north / Gold Coast area. Six solid hours on my feet pretty much wore me out, but my camera and I managed to capture some decent interior views.
Fortunately, I’d seen a few of the open spaces before, such as Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House and his home and studio. 200+ buildings, though, is simply too much of a good thing, and I’m now looking forward to next year’s edition of the Open House.
Some of the highlights included visits to architectural firms such as Holabird & Root, successor firm to the designers of many iconic Chicago buildings, and Adrian Smith + Gordon Gill Architecture, whose offices were filled with scale models of skyscrapers, including the firm’s 1-km tall Kingdom Tower in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. Favorite interiors included the sumptuous Red Lacquer Room in the Palmer House Hotel, with its long red-draped banquet table set with the original 1879 Haviland dinner service for the farewell banquet for Ulysses S. Grant. I also loved the calm, expansive space of the 8th-floor library of the Spertus Institute for Jewish Learning and Leadership, with its stunning view of the lakefront, Grant Park, the Museum Campus, and downtown skyscrapers.
Nostalgic visits included my first view of the interior of the H.H. Richardson Glessner House, a house I’d admired from the exterior many times. I’d long admired the Gothic steeple atop the Chicago Temple (First United Methodist Church) downtown, but I made my first (and last) ascent to the Sky Chapel, involving an elevator ride to the 22nd floor and then climbing up 172 stairs to the small chapel. It brought back memories of days when I could easily climb structures such as the dome of St. Peter’s.
Some of my edited pictures are posted here; you can also view Open House Chicago Flickr album by clicking here.
The crystalline glass façade of the Spertus Institute for Jewish Learning and Leadership (Krueck + Sexton, 2007), is a striking feature of this building, which features open interior spaces for study with panoramic views of the downtown Chicago lakefront.
The art deco 1929 Carbine and Carbon Building has been re-purposed as the Hard Rock Hotel Chicago. Original lobby details can still be admired.
Another inviting interior space for reading and contemplation is the Poetry Foundation (John Ronan Architects, 2011), on the near north side.
The Red Lacquer Room is one of the stunning function rooms in the 1927 Palmer House Hotel.
On Nov. 13, 1879, the Palmer House was the scene of a grand banquet in honor of General Grant, who had just returned from his world tour. On display in the Red Lacquer Room were place settings from the original Haviland Limoges china service used for the dinner, from the hotel’s collection.
The International Museum of Surgical Science, formerly the Eleanor Robinson Countiss Home, faces Lake Shore Drive and Lake Michigan. Period photographs show the former appearance of the rooms.
The offices of Adrian Smith + Gordon Gill Architecture feature scale models of some of the world’s tallest buildings, as well as stunning top-floor outdoor terraces.
The 1887 Glessner House is the only remaining building in the city of Chicago designed by architect Henry Hobson Richardson.
View my complete set of photos from Open House Chicago in my Flickr album here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/81954544@N00/albums/72157687108662761
among giants: at the Architecture Biennial Chicago 2017
It’s a gray and drizzly day outside my window. October has arrived, and I’m marking my first three months in Chicago. I’m excited, since I’ve missed the turning of the seasons, especially autumn. In southern China, it seemed to be always an endless summer; before that, in Jiangsu and Sichuan, there were summer and winter seasons, occasionally with snow, but I missed the gradual changes as one time of year changed gradually and seductively into another. Before that, seasons in Los Angeles were distinguished only by a slight lowering of temperatures; if the air was clear and you could see the mountains, it was winter; when the smog and burning-eyeball season descended, it was summer.
Officially I’m unemployed, with no dependable, regular working hours and income. I’m working, sometimes diligently and fully focused, but only sporadically. I’m a substitute teacher for Stafford House, Chicago, and my freelance career as a private tutor hovers around 3-4 hours a week, but is failing to achieve lift-off. I’m in it for the long haul, anticipating two years to build my business and reputation, but what do I do in the meantime, right now? I’m applying for any and every job, pride be damned.
The honest truth? It sucks to be 61 years old and unemployed. It sucks to feel the pinch of age discrimination in the job market. Burning through my savings was not my idea of how to spend the time leading to my Golden Years. However, bitterness and resentment don’t put out positive vibes, nor do they lead to job offers. My 12-Step training is very useful now: one day at a time; KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid); and just act as if.
So that’s my current status: “As If.” FYI, in an earlier draft of this post I wrote a Pollyanna-ish, upbeat, rose-colored ending in which I imagined my happy future. I deleted it.
tower, Architecture Biennial Chicago 2017
pigeon over the train tracks, Grant Park, Chicago
My first month in Chicago, and back in my home country, has passed quickly and with no major trauma. The one negative note was being victimized by an apartment rental scam through Craigslist: while still in China, I thought I could make the transition easier if I rented a furnished apartment before arriving in the US. It was my own fault for being gullible and believing in my own wishful thinking, and I lost a couple of thousand dollars on a deposit for an apartment that didn’t exist. Another hard life lesson learned.
On the plus side, I completed a short-term job teaching Italian teenagers at a summer English course through International Study and Vacation. I’m now working on attracting some private students, and I’m boning up on my knowledge of academic writing. I continue applying for jobs, mostly through the Chicago City Colleges.
The weather here has been glorious, a sharp contrast to the oppressive heat and humidity of south China, where the students and I sweated through 90-minute classes and the climate drained every ounce of energy from me. China now seems like a distant dream; I only occasionally have cravings for steamed bao zi (meat-filled buns) for breakfast or other local culinary delights. My studio apartment is a short distance from Lake Michigan, and my dog and I enjoy walks to Belmont Harbor and through the beautiful urban greenery of the lakefront parks.
The worst of the culture shock has passed, although there are still some aspects of local life that continue to perplex me:
I was severely chastised for failing to hold a door open for someone exiting a restaurant; it simply never occurred to me. I had become used to having doors slam in my face in China, a country where it can be hard to observe social niceties in its overcrowded cities.
I can understand virtually everything people say here. In China I long ago became used to the bliss of incomprehension; it excused me from having to respond to rudeness or others’ remarks about me. Here, I comprehend every inane conversation around me, and it can be irritating.
Chicagoans seem to walk around anticipating any opportunity for being polite or accommodating. I’ve never heard “Hello, how are you?” so often when entering a store, or people excusing themselves or apologizing for passing others on the sidewalk. Strangers smile at each other here, especially when you’re walking a dog. This over-politeness gets on my nerves sometimes. I almost prefer the brusqueness of other big cities I’ve been in.
I’m still surprised when I see “no firearms” signs at the entrances to libraries, offices, or bars. It reminds me of the constant risk of violence here.
Finally, when I asked my Italian students what things surprised them about America, their first question was “Why don’t you have bidets here? Funny what things we take for granted, and then instantly miss them when they’re gone.